Carole, I know you try out different ice creams. Try all the ones you think you might like to try. Then try this one last. After this, you will not want any other, ever, ever, ever. I decree it to be the best there is. I will never need any other. Done.The throttle linkage on the F100 is the most pathetic, laughable, sorry piece of crap that I have ever had the displeasure to see on a vehicle. When I first saw this I literally could not stop laughing for about 5 minutes. I'm serious. I don't know who made this, and how they could have managed to spend so much time and effort and yet have such a poor result. I think the only thing that could be worse is if it was made from a length of string, except that string would at least keep proper tension. Take a look at this gem while I point out its 'features':
First note the material: wire coat hanger. The bends needed to clear the carburetor no doubt flexed a great deal, so reinforcing bars were soldered across the bends to stiffen them up. This actually kind of works. Kind of. You can just barely see in the back the loose bolt connecting to the pedal linkage. The main piece of wire must have been too short, so another was connected to it with a bolt and nut, you can see them just to the left of the bigger curving black hose. From there, the coat hanger extension goes somewhat cleverly through a 3/8 bolt and nut that is also extremely loosely positioned in the carb linkage hole. You can see how much bigger the carb linkage hole is than the bolt going through it. I can't believe this worked at all.-
Also please note the two throttle return springs, a surprising example of over-engineering, except to say that the rear one is extended to its mount by a length of tiny, tiny wire, so that will be a major subtraction of points.
Here's what I'll use to make a better linkage: 1/4" steel rod, a small steel tab with a hole, a couple of bolts, a couple of washers, and some nuts. The nut second from left is a "coupling nut", much longer than a standard nut; I used this so I had more area for welding. I had all of this junk on hand in the garage.
Here's what I'll use to make a better linkage: 1/4" steel rod, a small steel tab with a hole, a couple of bolts, a couple of washers, and some nuts. The nut second from left is a "coupling nut", much longer than a standard nut; I used this so I had more area for welding. I had all of this junk on hand in the garage.-
I have been turning the current setting and wire speed on my welder up much higher lately, and my welding has improved immensely. You can't be afraid to turn it up and really blaze with that thing! Man I love welding.
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Here I have the tab welded onto the steel rod already. I have bent the rod to fit around the carburetor. I am holding the rod in it's approximate position, and I have made a small black mark at the center where the rod must connect through the carb linkage hole.
From here I cut the rod, and welded a length of threaded 1/4-20 rod (really a bolt with the head cut off) onto the end. This will give some adjustment to the linkage. I welded another bolt onto the coupling nut at a right angle. This is the part that goes through the carb hole.
Here is a comparison of the existing floppy linkage, and the new beefy one I made.
It's hard to see the details, but this is really just a recreation of every mid-'60's factory throttle linkage I've ever seen. I made a bushing that fills the carb linkage hole and allows my linkage to pass through snugly, eliminating all the sloppiness. It's just a 3/16" slice of 1/2" diameter aluminum bar with a hole through the center. Thanks for that bar of material, Mr. big blue computer company.
Here it is test fitted into place. You can maybe get a better idea of how it works from this shot. I will take it off and give it a nice coat of semi-gloss black, my favorite, and of course use nyloc nuts during reassembly.
A little artful grinding, a nice coat of paint, and it looks and works fantastic! Best part of the truck. I am not doing it justice by not showing it painted.
From here I cut the rod, and welded a length of threaded 1/4-20 rod (really a bolt with the head cut off) onto the end. This will give some adjustment to the linkage. I welded another bolt onto the coupling nut at a right angle. This is the part that goes through the carb hole.Here is a comparison of the existing floppy linkage, and the new beefy one I made.
It's hard to see the details, but this is really just a recreation of every mid-'60's factory throttle linkage I've ever seen. I made a bushing that fills the carb linkage hole and allows my linkage to pass through snugly, eliminating all the sloppiness. It's just a 3/16" slice of 1/2" diameter aluminum bar with a hole through the center. Thanks for that bar of material, Mr. big blue computer company.Here it is test fitted into place. You can maybe get a better idea of how it works from this shot. I will take it off and give it a nice coat of semi-gloss black, my favorite, and of course use nyloc nuts during reassembly.
A little artful grinding, a nice coat of paint, and it looks and works fantastic! Best part of the truck. I am not doing it justice by not showing it painted.-
This would run about $100 (materials included) at Hudson Valley Hot Rods. If I can get this pile running and driving, I'm hoping to go to some local cruises, hand out some business cards, and hopefully get some jobs.
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More soon, thanks for waiting, y'all.
